Best electric guitars under $1,000/£1,000 in 2025: My top picks for players of all styles

A Fender Player II Stratocaster and Telecaster on a white piece of wood with lots of holes in it
(Image credit: Future)

Whether you’re finally ready to step up from a beginner instrument or you just want to add a top-quality guitar to your existing arsenal, the best electric guitars under $1,000 can offer you a lot of guitar for your money. With premium tonewoods, excellent quality pickups, and loads of great features, it’s the perfect budget ot bag yourself a standout instrument.

It used to be that the $1,000 mark was the point where you stepped out from intermediate guitar territory and into more professional-level instruments. Unfortunately, due to the many economic stressors we’ve faced over the past few years, it’s now a bit harder to get to that kind of level without having to step over the $1k threshold. Lucky for you, I’ve been playing guitar for over 20 years now, so I know exactly what to look for to get the most bang for your hard-earned bucks.

For me, the best all-rounder below that magic $1k mark is the PRS SE Custom 24. PRS’ recent build quality has been second to none in my experience, and this guitar has a huge range of tonal options that let it cover a range of styles. For the LP experience, you should check out the Epiphone Les Paul Custom. Guitarists who are Fender aficionados, meanwhile, should have a look at the Fender Player II Tele and Fender Player II Strat for their twang and spank demands respectively.

If you’re not sure how to go about making a buying decision, I’ve put together a how to choose section for this guide that will chaperone you through all the elements you should be looking for when purchasing a new guitar. I’ve also included an FAQs section which answers loads of common questions I get from guitar players, and a glossary of key terms for those who are a little newer to the instrument and want some extra guidance.

My top picks

Best overall

Close up of the pickups on a PRS SE Custom 24 electric guitar

For the best overall experience below a grand, the PRS SE Custom 24 is my top choice. (Image credit: Future)
The mid-priced, Korean-made, do-it-all solidbody

Specifications

Body: Mahogany with maple top
Neck: Maple
Scale: 25"
Fingerboard: Rosewood
Frets: 24
Pickups: 2x 85/15 'S' humbuckers
Controls: Volume, tone (with push-pull coil-split), 3-way selector
Hardware: PRS vibrato, PRS SE tuners
Left-handed: Yes
Finish: Fire Red Burst, Tobacco Sunburst, Trampas Green, Whale Blue

Reasons to buy

+
Partial coil-splits
+
Excellent vibrato
+
More affordable version of PRS's classic solidbody

Reasons to avoid

-
PRS's maple/birds aesthetic isn't to everyone's taste
-
Slight tackiness to the neck finish

The PRS SE range has offered solid, well-built, great-sounding guitars for years now, and the PRS SE Custom 24 is a perfect example. This Korean-built mass of maple, mahogany, and rosewood is a classy-looking guitar.

It’s a wonderful instrument to play too – PRS's expertise in making eye-wateringly expensive guitars is evident from the moment you pick it up. The bridge, for example, has a noticeably low profile. This makes palm-muting a much more pleasant experience, especially if you’re used to chugging away on a Floyd Rose-style bridge.

A lot has been made of the SE Custom’s pickups; 2017 models added Korean-made versions of the 85/15 pups used on the more expensive American Core line, dubbed “the perfect pickup” by Paul Reed Smith himself. Largely, they live up to that promise; the bridge pickup is capable of some serious chunky metal tones, which retain definition and clarity even at absurd levels of gain.

Spend some time with the SE Custom 24 and you’ll come to realise that there is no stereotype that fits. And therein lies its beauty. It’s not a guitar or a brand that concerns itself with cultivating a popular image; PRS has always favoured more obvious metrics like quality manufacturing, great sounds, and classic looks.

EXPERT VERDICT: PRS SE CUSTOM 24
Chris Corfield author pic
EXPERT VERDICT: PRS SE CUSTOM 24
Chris Corfield

"Spend some time with the SE Custom 24 and you’ll come to realise that there is no stereotype that fits. And therein lies its beauty. It’s not a guitar or a brand that concerns itself with cultivating a popular image; PRS has always favoured more obvious metrics like quality manufacturing, great sounds and classic looks."

Read more: PRS SE Custom 24 review

Best Les Paul

An Epiphone Les Paul Custom electric guitar

If you want an LP guitar without paying many thousands, the Epiphone Les Paul Custom is a great option. (Image credit: Epiphone)

2. Epiphone Les Paul Custom

Get that premium Les Paul experience for a lot less

Specifications

Body: Mahogany
Neck: Mahogany
Scale: 24.75”
Fingerboard: Ebony
Frets: 22
Pickups: Epiphone ProBucker 2 (neck), Epiphone ProBucker 3 (bridge)
Controls: 2 Volume, 2 Tone - CTS potentiometers, 3-way Epiphone toggle
Hardware: Epiphone LockTone Tune-O-Matic bridge with Epiphone LockTone Stop Bar, Grover Rotomatic 18:1 tuning machines
Left-handed: Yes (Ebony only)
Finish: Ebony, Alpine White

Reasons to buy

+
Superb medium and high gain performance
+
Awesome looks make it stand out
+
Super comfortable neck profile

Reasons to avoid

-
Some users reported QC issues

Les Pauls are expensive guitars, but you can still get the majority of the performance and tone of a full-fat one for under the $1k mark. For me, the Epiphone Les Paul Custom is the best way to get that glorious dual humbucker sound with the stunning good looks of a Les Paul without having to spend multiple thousands of dollars.

The two Epiphone ProBucker pickups deliver excellent traditional PAF tones at medium and high gain, with an aggressive-sounding bridge pickup and a warmer, more subtle neck position. They excel at rock and blues playing, although I did find that when played clean, they could get a little muddy without some EQing.

The build quality is where some users have reported issues. These could be small cosmetic blemishes with the paintwork and the binding, or issues with the fretwork and setup. Considering the price of the guitar, unfortunately this is the norm nowadays. I’ve had plenty of review guitars around this price point that needed a decent setup, and with any new guitar you buy, you should get it set up immediately to get it playing its best.

Despite the small QC issues, if you want the Les Paul experience below $1k, then this is a fantastic option. It’s got the looks, the sound, and with a little setup work, the playability that make it perfect for rock and rollers.

Best Telecaster

A Fender Player II Telecaster electric guitar lying on a white pegboard

For the best Tele experience below $1k, the Player II series is an awesome choice. (Image credit: Future)
A brilliantly spec’d Telecaster for well below the $1k mark

Specifications

Body: Alder, Chambered Ash or Chambered Mahogany Body
Neck: Maple
Scale: 25.5"
Fingerboard: Maple or Rosewood
Frets: 22
Pickups: 2x Player Series Alnico 5 Tele single-coils
Controls: Master Volume, Master Tone, 3-way switch
Hardware: 6-saddle string through Tele bridge with Block Steel Saddles
Finish: White Blonde, Polar White, Transparent Cherry, Birch Green, Coral Red, Butterscotch Blonde, Black, Aquatone Blue, 3-Color Sunburst, Aged Cherry Burst, Mocha

Reasons to buy

+
Alnico pickups deliver classic Tele tone
+
Slab rosewood fingerboards are back
+
Fender’s modern ‘C’ neck profile offers excellent playability

Reasons to avoid

-
Required a setup out of the box
-
No gig bag included

Telecasters are super versatile guitars, and the Fender Player II Telecaster takes the original Player recipe and adds some nice extra touches to make it one of the best value-for-money guitars you can buy right now, never mind the best Tele under $1,000.

Fender’s modern ‘C’ neck profile is amongst the comfiest I’ve ever played, offering a beautiful balance between heft for fretting chords, and slinkiness for three-note-per-string legato runs. The return of Rosewood fingerboards is a welcome one, and you’ve still got the classic maple ‘boards available too if you prefer those.

The Alnico 5 Player series pickups are more vintage-oriented, which means you get that classic Tele twang in the bridge position and a warm, round tone from the darker neck pickup. They sound phenomenal clean, and handle high gain well, making them incredibly versatile and able to adapt to pretty much any style apart from extreme metal sounds.

Alas, like many guitars nowadays, I have come across QC issues with all of the Fender MIM guitars. Producing instruments with this type of spec at this cost is obviously difficult, so when you get yours, it may need a setup. These aren’t things that make the instruments unplayable by any means, but just extra steps you’ll need to take to get the best out of them.

EXPERT VERDICT: FENDER PLAYER II TELECASTER
Rob Laing
EXPERT VERDICT: FENDER PLAYER II TELECASTER
Rob Laing

"And that’s the great thing about these Player II guitars; the necks are so persuasive and all the ingredients are in check elsewhere, for most of us the American Fenders aren’t going to be a compelling step up for most of us. Because it can be quite a substantial financial jump. That’s a good problem for Fender and its customers to have, especially with this new Mexican series that offers so much for you to invest in elsewhere and broaden your horizons further. "

Read more: Fender Player II Telecaster review

Best Stratocaster

A Fender Player II Stratocaster lying on a white pegboard

For classic Strat tones, it doesn't get much better than the Player II Series below the $1,000 mark. (Image credit: Future)
The best way to get that Strat spank for a lot less

Specifications

Body: Alder
Neck: Maple
Scale: 25.5"
Fingerboard: Maple/Rosewood
Frets: 22
Pickups: Player Series Alnico V Single-Coil Strat Pickups
Controls: Master Volume, Tone 1 (Neck/Middle Pickups), Tone 2 (Bridge Pickup)
Hardware: Nickel/Chrome
Left-handed: Yes
Finish: Polar White, 3-Color Sunburst, White Blonde, Transparent Cherry Burst, Coral Red, Birch Green, Black, Aquatone Blue, Aged Cherry Burst, Transparent Mocha Burst, Hialeah Yellow

Reasons to buy

+
Pickups give you vintage Strat spank
+
Welcome return for rosewood fingerboards
+
Huge choice of finishes

Reasons to avoid

-
Some small QC issues

If you want a Stratocaster for below the $1k mark, this Fender Player II Stratocaster would be my top choice. It’s got all the vintage vibe you’ll need with its classic looks, trio of Alnico 5 single coil pickups, and there’s a huge choice of finishes that will fit the aesthetic of any guitar player.

The Player Series Alnico pickups of the Player II Strat are perfect for a variety of styles, with the bridge position delivering plenty of bite and a reasonably aggressive tone with gain applied. In position 2 it’s pure surf territory with some spring reverb added, and the neck position is perfect for smooth leads and clean funk guitar picking.

The modern ‘C’ neck of this guitar is incredibly playable, and the addition of the rosewood fingerboard elevates it well beyond a mere beginner guitar and firmly into intermediate territory. It’s got 22 medium jumbo frets, which offer a nice balance of heft and slinkiness, while the additional fret gives you a way to bend up to a full octave, which I prefer to more vintage-spec 21-fret guitars.

All the Player II guitars I’ve tested did have some small QC issues, and on the Strat I tested, it was the nut of the high ‘E’ which gave me an issue, not ringing out quite as clearly as it should have. It’s part of the game nowadays when spending less than a grand on a big-name guitar, so just be advised that you might need to give yours an additional setup when you get it.

EXPERT VERDICT: FENDER PLAYER II STRATOCASTER
Rob Laing
EXPERT VERDICT: FENDER PLAYER II STRATOCASTER
Rob Laing

"The lack of any gig bag feels a bit stingy but the improvements here do balance that out and make a difference to playability and aesthetic – especially in the case of the rosewood models. I can’t help feeling Fender’s necks in this series are also consistently the best you’ll find at this price point. And as I said before and we all know, the feel of the neck and the way you connect with it really matters."

Read more: Fender Player II Stratocaster review

Best P-90

A Yamaha Revstar Standard RSS02T electric guitar

For articulate P-90 tones, the Yamaha Revstar RSS02T delivers alongside excellent playability and build quality. (Image credit: Yamaha)

5. Yamaha Revstar Standard RSS02T

A hugely underappreciated guitar that gives excellent P-90 tone

Specifications

Body: Chambered Mahogany with Maple top
Neck: 3-Piece Mahogany, Carbon Reinforcement
Scale: 24-3/4” (628.6 mm)
Fingerboard: Rosewood
Frets: 22
Pickups: VP5n: P90-Type, Single Coil/Alnico V, VP5b: P90-Type, Single Coil/Alnico V
Controls: Master Volume, Master Tone (Push-Pull "Focus Switch"), 5-Position Lever Switch
Hardware: Tune-O-Matic bridge, Die Cast tuning machines
Left-handed: No
Finish: Swift Blue, Black, Sunburst, Hot Merlot

Reasons to buy

+
Superbly versatile pickups
+
Lightweight construction
+
Fantastic build quality

Reasons to avoid

-
Some will prefer a more traditional-looking guitar

Yamaha guitars are criminally underrated, especially considering that Yamaha is actually the biggest instrument manufacturer in the world. Maybe it’s because we guitarists have two such massive stalwarts in Fender and Gibson, but for P-90 lovers, you’ll look past the Yamaha Revstar Standard RSS02T at your peril.

The two P-90 pickups are incredibly articulate, and they surprised me massively with just how versatile they can be. Yes, P-90s are great for blues thanks to their cutting tone, but the voice of these two reminded me of the versatility of a Telecaster. They handle clean tones brilliantly and retain their clarity when you crank up the gain. Add in the ability to use out-of-phase positions with the 5-position switch, and you’ve got a guitar that can handle pretty much anything.

Unlike some of the other guitars at this price point, the build quality of the Revstars I’ve played has been second to none, and certainly worthy of a much more expensive price point. This particular model is beautifully put together, and I really love the lightweight feel and balance of the chambered mahogany body.

The jumbo stainless steel frets will last for years, and give you plenty to push against when bending strings or sliding up and down the neck. The flat 12-inch radius makes it really playable when you get to the speedy stuff, and the carbon reinforcement just adds that extra bit of stability when you really dig into it. It’s a brilliant guitar for the money, and easily the equal of the bigger-name brands in this guide.

Best hollow body

A Gretsch G5420T Electromatic Hollow Body electric guitar

For classic hollow body tones and stunning looks below a grand, the Gretsch G5420T ticks all the boxes. (Image credit: Future)
A hollowbody for country fans on a budget

Specifications

Body: 5-ply maple, hollow
Neck: Maple
Scale: 24.6"
Fingerboard: Rosewood
Frets: 22
Pickups: 2x Blacktop Filter'Tron humbuckers
Controls: Neck volume, bridge volume, tone, 3-way selector
Hardware: Bigsby vibrato, Adjusto-Matic with secured rosewood base
Left-handed: Yes, without Bigsby: G5420LH
Finish: Fairlane Blue, Orange Stain, Aspen Green

Reasons to buy

+
Great colour
+
Plenty of Gretsch style and sound
+
Good build and slinky playability

Reasons to avoid

-
Be prepared to tweak the pickup heights
-
A wider-spaced bridge pickup would be nice

Part of Gretsch's mid-range Electromatic line, the single-cut G5420T is based on the classic 6120 Chet Atkins Hollow Body – the 'generic' Gretsch we all drew in our school books. It features a new-to-Gretsch colour, Fairlane Blue, which is a deep metallic blue, as well as a Bigsby vibrato and Blacktop Filter'Tron pickups.

There are plenty of shades to be drawn from the slightly damped, muted response with the pickup volumes and tone pulled back, to the thinner, brighter and twangier voices with the master volume rolled back and the pickup volumes full on.

It's true that this would not be our first choice as the only guitar we took to a jam or function-band gig – but for a whole host of older-genre styles, from the obvious rock 'n' roll and rockabilly through to much rootsier swampier voices that love a little 'hair' or outright grunt and grunge, it's one of the best sub $/£1,000 electric guitars out there.

EXPERT VERDICT: GRETSCH G5420T ELECTROMATIC
Dave Burrluck is one of the world’s most experienced guitar journalists, who started writing back in the '80s for International Musician and Recording World, co-founded The Guitar Magazine and has been the Gear Reviews Editor of Guitarist magazine for the past two decades. Along the way, Dave has been the sole author of The PRS Guitar Book and The Player's Guide to Guitar Maintenance as well as contributing to numerous other books on the electric guitar. Dave is an active gigging and recording musician and still finds time to make, repair and mod guitars, not least for Guitarist’s The Mod Squad.
EXPERT VERDICT: GRETSCH G5420T ELECTROMATIC
Dave Burrluck

"And then there's the versatility, but not in the manner of a modern solidbody with its full humbuckers and single-coil splits. While it's more subtle here, there are plenty of shades from the slightly damped, muted response with the pickup volumes and tone pulled back, to the thinner, brighter and twangier voices with the master volume rolled back and the pickup volumes full on."

Read more: Gretsch G5420T Electromatic review

Best for metal

A Schecter Damien 6 Platinum electric guitar

For metal guitar tones below $1,000, the dual EMG-equipped Schecter Damien 6 is my top pick. (Image credit: Schecter)

7. Schecter Damien 6 Platinum

A brilliant sub-$1k option for heavy metalheads

Specifications

Body: Mahogany
Neck: Maple 3-pc
Scale: 25.5" (648mm)
Fingerboard: Rosewood
Frets: 24
Pickups: EMG 85 (neck), EMG 81 (bridge)
Controls: Volume/Tone/3-Way Switch
Hardware: Tune-O-Matic bridge w/ String Thru Body, Grover tuners
Left-handed: Yes
Finish: Satin Black

Reasons to buy

+
Dual EMGs deliver searing metal guitar tones
+
Slim neck is great for fast playing
+
Platinum bat inlays complete the metal look

Reasons to avoid

-
Satin black finish wears easily

If you’re looking to get heavy, the Schecter Damien 6 Platinum does a lot for below the $1,000 price point. It’s got dual EMGs, a fast playing and slim neck profile, plus those super cool bat inlays for proper metal street cred.

EMGs are well known for being a staple of metal guitar, and the 85/81 EMG combination is a classic. Some may accuse them of being sterile, but when you’re dealing with ultra-high gain, that’s what you want. They’re perfect for crushing heavy riffs, searing metal shred leads, and they do a pretty good clean tone when you need to bring it down a notch.

I really like the neck profile of this guitar; it’s nice and slim, which makes those shred scale runs super easy to perform. Extra jumbo frets also work great with higher gauge strings if you’re downtuning, and bending against them is super satisfying. The bat inlays take some getting used to if you’re used to dots, but once you find your way around them, they also look incredibly cool.

One thing that you might find annoying is the satin black finish. Satin finishes are renowned for looking amazing when you get them, but if you don’t take care of them, you’ll end up with shiny patches ruining the look. If you’re regularly gigging, it’s probably best to look at a Schecter with a glossy finish, but if you’re mainly playing at home, you shouldn’t have any issues provided you wipe it down every time you’re done playing with it.

This is another guitar where I didn’t come across much in the way of build quality issues on the one I played, which sets it apart from some of the bigger names here. It’s quite basic with a tune-o-matic bridge and no tremolo, which may put off some metalheads. If you want a locking tremolo, there is one available, but be prepared to potentially spend over $1k on one.

Best offset

Close up of a Squier J Mascis Jazzmaster electric guitar

For the best offset looks and tone below $1,000, the J Mascis Jazzmaster is hard to beat. (Image credit: Future)
A brilliant offset guitar that massively outperforms the Squier name on the headstock

Specifications

Body: Basswood
Neck: Maple
Scale: 25.5" (647mm)
Fingerboard: Indian Laurel
Frets: 21
Pickups: 2x Single-Coil Jazzmaster
Controls: Lead Circuit Controls (Slide Switch Down): Volume (Neck), Volume (Bridge), Master Tone; Rhythm Circuit Controls (Slide Switch Up): Two Thumbwheel Controls for Neck Pickup Volume and Tone, 3-Position Toggle: Position 1. Bridge Pickup, Position 2. Bridge and Neck Pickups, Position 3. Neck Pickup (Lead Circuit), 2-Position Slide: Up: Lead Tone Circuit, Down: Rhythm Tone Circuit
Hardware: Adjusto-Matic Bridge with Vintage Style "Floating" Tremolo Tailpiece, Vintage-Style tuning machines
Left-handed: No
Finish: Vintage White

Reasons to buy

+
Loads of tone options
+
Stunning good looks
+
Super playable neck

Reasons to avoid

-
Usual JM tremolo issues
-
They’re pretty heavy

The Squier J Mascis Jazzmaster is a guitar so good that Fender brought it back after initially discontinuing it. It was fetching a big price second-hand as guitarists kept seeking it out, and that’s because it delivers brilliant tones and superb playability for not a lot of cash.

The extra controls give you a lot of options for different tones, so although players often buy it for shoegaze tones, it can do a lot more than that. These are low-output pickups, so they’re not going to do modern metal, but for nearly everything else, you can get a usable tone out of them. They respond brilliantly to fuzz pedals, but just be wary that they can get a bit noisy at higher gain levels.

The satin neck is also superb, giving you brilliant playability without the need to wear it in. The bigger frets spec’d by J Mascis himself make it a joy to slide up and down the neck on, and make playing pretty much any style or technique a breeze, bar the shreddy stuff. The neck feel is honestly superb, and equal to guitars that cost much more money in my opinion.

No guitar is perfect, and the one thing with this guitar is that you may encounter issues with the tremolo system. Some people I know reported issues getting the tremolo bar to stay in, whereas others have found that with heavy use, the tremolo can knock the strings out of tune. These are issues that are pretty standard with Jazzmaster bridge design though, and can be remedied with a good setup or an upgrade if need be.

EXPERT VERDICT: SQUIER J MASCIS JAZZMASTER
MusicRadar logo
EXPERT VERDICT: SQUIER J MASCIS JAZZMASTER
Henry Yates

"Versatility is one thing, but the knockout punch here is the tonal quality. Similar in construction to the P90, these Jazzmaster singlecoil soapbars are wound wide. While they haven't got the classic Fender snap, they're clear, full and woody when clean, and break under distortion into a huge grunge grind. If you're bored of humbuckers and standard singles, you'll find them refreshing."

Read more: Squier J Mascis Jazzmaster review

Best for beginners

A PRS SE CE 24 Standard Satin electric guitar

For beginners looking to spend a bit more, the PRS SE CE 24 Standard is a great guitar with plenty of leftover budget for an amp. (Image credit: PRS)

9. PRS SE CE 24 Standard Satin

A great guitar for the beginner who wants to spend a little more than usual

Specifications

Body: Mahogany
Neck: Maple
Scale: 25”
Fingerboard: Rosewood
Frets: 24
Pickups: 2x 85/15 “S”
Controls: Volume and Push/Pull Tone Control w/ 3-Way Toggle Pickup Switch
Hardware: PRS Patented Tremolo bridge, PRS Designed Tuners
Left-handed: No
Finish: Charcoal, Ice Blue Metallic, Metallic Gold, Metallic Silver, Turquoise, Vintage Cherry

Reasons to buy

+
Fantastic build quality
+
Superb range of tones
+
Incredible value for money

Reasons to avoid

-
Those with $1k could get a SE Custom 24

The PRS SE CE 24 Standard Satin is one of the best value-for-money guitars I’ve encountered over the past few years, and I’ve played a lot of guitars! It delivers superb value for your money, and if you’ve got a grand to spend, you could get a great guitar, save the rest, or splurge on an amp or some pedals instead.

The dual PRS-designed humbuckers are really versatile, sitting nicely between low-output vintage and high-output modernity. The ability to split the coils of each gives you single-coil sounds too, making it a real toolbox for tones. Of course, the more expensive PRS’ have a bit more depth, but honestly, it’s surprising how good the SE CE 24 sounds for the money.

The neck is a ‘C’ profile, but the slightly relaxed shoulders make it feel a little thinner and faster. It’s effortlessly comfortable, and the model I played was perfectly set up out of the box, which is something you don’t often find these days. It’s a real all-rounder in terms of feel, allowing for a myriad of styles with very little effort.

I could find nothing out of place in terms of the overall build quality either, with the frets perfectly installed and the tremolo putting up with plenty of abuse. It’s a bit more stripped back than your average PRS, but the finishing makes it look a lot more expensive than it is. For beginners with a little bit to spend, you could do a lot worse than this, and even those guitar veterans will find plenty to love here.

Spec comparison

If you're struggling to decide between my top picks, this comparison table aggregates all the key specifications in one place, making it easy for a direct comparison of each of the models.

Swipe to scroll horizontally

Model

Body

Neck

Fingerboard

Frets

Scale

Pickup config

Lefty?

PRS SE Custom 24

Mahogany/maple top

Maple

Rosewood

24

25"

HH

Yes

Epiphone Les Paul Custom

Mahogany

Mahogany

Ebony

22

24.75”

HH

Yes

Fender Player II Telecaster

Alder, Chambered Ash, Chambered Mahogany

Maple

Maple/Rosewood

22

25.5"

SS

Yes

Fender Player II Stratocaster

Alder

Maple

Maple/Rosewood

22

25.5"

SSS

Yes

Yamaha Revstar Standard RSS02T

Chambered Mahogany, Maple Top

Mahogany

Rosewood

22

24-3/4”

SS

No

Gretsch G5420T Electromatic

Maple

Maple

Rosewood

22

24.6"

HH

Yes

Schecter Damien 6 Platinum

Mahogany

Maple

Rosewood

24

25.5"

HH

Yes

Squier J Mascis Jazzmaster

Basswood

Maple

Indian Laurel

21

25.5"

SS

No

PRS SE CE 24 Standard Satin

Mahogany

Maple

Rosewood

24

25"

HH

No

How to choose

Close up of the pickup selector on a PRS electric guitar

(Image credit: Future)

Deciding which guitar to go for can be really difficult when you’ve got $1,000 on your hip. There’s a lot of choice at this price point, and to be totally honest, loads of really great options available for players nowadays. I’ve been buying, selling, and playing guitar for over twenty years now, so let me share my process with you.

1. Consider your sound

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Thinking about your sound, or the sound you’re trying to achieve, is of the utmost importance when you’re spending this amount of money. You should think long and hard about why you’re buying a new guitar, and what you want it to do that your current guitar can’t. You might only play one style, which could make things easier, but then what if you decide later down the line you want to delve into something different?

It’s good practice to write down your guitar goals, what you want from your playing in the future, and more importantly, what you think your current guitar is doing to hold you back, before you take the plunge and buy something new.

2. Body style

The body style can make quite a big difference to how the guitar will play. Les Paul’s are really heavy and bulky, whereas something like a Stratocaster tends to be more lightweight and ergonomic. Feeling comfortable with your guitar is a really important part of how you’ll play it, so it’s good to give it some thought to see whether you like what you already have, or you want to try something different.

3. Check your pickups

In electric guitars, the type of pickups it has will make the biggest difference to how the guitar sounds. Certain pickup types are better than others at different styles, so depending on what pickups your potential guitars have will determine their suitability for a particular type of music.

Typically single coil pickups are lower output than humbuckers, which makes them better for less heavy styles of music like blues and funk. Heavier music tends to rely on the use of humbuckers for higher output, which can make them better suited to rock and metal. That said there’s a definite blurring of the lines here, with certain humbuckers being great for blues and single coils sounding great for rock music, which leads us nicely onto our next point.

4. Do your research

This guide has guitars arranged by styles and types, which should get you some of the way there, but electric guitars can be vastly different in terms of playability and sound, so check out the full reviews we’ve linked here, and delve into YouTube videos for sound demos too.

You should always have a healthy dose of scepticism when doing this, though, because what works great for one player might feel totally alien to another. You should also bear in mind rig differences, because a guitar is going to sound very different through a vintage tube amp than it will through a practice amp.

FAQs

Close up of the maple neck on a Fender Player II Stratocaster electric guitar

(Image credit: Future)

Which guitar brands are the best under $1,000?

Nearly every major brand offers great guitars below the $1,000 mark. My personal favourites are all represented in this guide, so if you look for brands like Fender, PRS, Epiphone, Gretsch, Yamaha, Schecter, and Squier, you can’t really go wrong. There are also great guitars from lesser-known brands out there, so do your research and you can find some great value guitars.

Will I get more value buying used?

In pure monetary terms, yes, you will get more for your money going used. It can be a great way to pick up an instrument for much less than its value new, and there are plenty of good guitar players out there who are just selling well-looked-after instruments because they didn’t gel with them, or they need to clear some space.

It can be a bit of a lottery, though, as not everyone looks after their guitars properly, so there is always that chance you can get a dud. When buying new, you get the reassurance that you can send it back if there are any issues, whereas it might be harder to argue that on places like Facebook Marketplace and Reverb.

Does the country of origin matter at the $1k mark?

Generally speaking, at the $1,000 mark, you’ll be getting guitars manufactured in the Far East or Mexico. In terms of quality, yes, they’re not quite as good as those offerings from the USA, but they’re not all that far off. I’ve played plenty of Far East-manufactured guitars from China, Indonesia, Korea, and others that have all played brilliantly.

What pickups should I go for?

This is all down to your personal style. Most pickup types are fairly versatile, but some do certain things better than others. It’s really key to do your research here if you’re not familiar with pickup types, and always remember that changing your pickup type can result in quite drastic differences, which could be a good or a bad thing depending on your personal outlook as a guitarist.

Is it better to spend more on a guitar or an amp?

In all honesty, I believe a good amp makes a much bigger difference than a good guitar. That said, the pickups of an electric would be second after the amplifier, so it’s still an important part of the signal chain. If you didn’t have an amp or an electric guitar, then I would recommend splitting the budget down the middle and spending $500 on each.

Will a heavier guitar sound better?

I’ve never really noticed much difference in heavier electric guitars like those made out of mahogany, but there is a difference in sound if a guitar has a chambered or hollow body. In all honesty, it’s the pickups that make an electric guitar sound the way it does, as well as the amps and pedals you play them through, so I wouldn’t get too hung up on the weight of the guitar.

What about fret size?

Fret size is a very personal thing. Some prefer big frets while others prefer smaller ones. Generally, you’ll find vintage-spec guitars have smaller frets, whereas more modern guitars or those geared towards metal and shred have larger ones. They can make a big difference in the way a guitar feels, so if you’re not sure about fret siz,e it’s good to play a few different guitars side-by-side so you can see what kind of difference it makes.

Is it worth buying a guitar online without playing it?

Absolutely. Provided the retailer you’re buying from has a good returns policy, there’s no reason you couldn’t try out every guitar on this list to find the one you really like. I’ve done it loads of times, and while yes, there have been guitars I haven’t gelled with, I’ve found plenty more that have ended up being keepers.

How long will a guitar under $1k last?

Provided you look after it, any decent guitar under $1,000 is going to last decades. Electric guitars are incredibly well-made these days, so provided you’re not throwing them about or taking them on tour without a gig bag or hard case, there’s no reason it won’t last for years and years.

Key terms

Close up of the bridge pickup on a Fender Player II Telecaster electric guitar

(Image credit: Future)
  • Action: The height of the strings from the fretboard. Typically, a low action plays faster, while a high action can be better for slide guitar or players who hit hard.
  • Body style: The shape of the guitar body, which determines how comfortable or heavy the guitar might be.
  • Bridge: The part of the guitar that anchors the strings to the guitar body.
  • Cutaway: A scooped-out section of the body designed to allow better access to the upper frets.
  • Fretboard (Fingerboard): The part of the guitar where you place your fingers to fret notes and chords.
  • Fretwork: The quality of the application of frets on the fretboard.
  • Humbucker: A type of pickup that houses two single coils together, resulting in a higher output signal without any hum.
  • Intonation: How in tune a guitar is across the length of its fretboard.
  • Neck Profile: The shape of the guitar neck, which determines how it feels in your hand. These are often denoted by letters such as ‘C’, ‘D’, ‘U’, or ‘V’.
  • Nut: The nut sits at the top of the guitar and guides the strings from the tuning machines onto the fretboard.
  • Offset guitar: A type of guitar that features an asymmetrical waist, originally designed to be comfortable when played seated.
  • P-90: A type of pickup that is technically a single coil, but in terms of sound sits somewhere between a single coil and a humbucker.
  • Pickup: The part of your guitar that transfers the sound from your strings to your guitar amplifier using magnets.
  • Scale length: The distance between the nut and the bridge. Different scales affect how the guitar plays and can have a small effect on the tone of the guitar.
  • Setup: The process of adjusting the action, intonation, fretwork, and neck relief to ensure the guitar is playing its best.
  • Single-coil: A type of pickup that uses a single coil to create its sound. Delivers a brighter tone but is more susceptible to hum.
  • Tonewood: A word used to describe the type of wood from which a guitar body is made. Often overestimated as to how much of an effect it has on the tone.
  • Truss rod: A metal rod inside the neck that is used to adjust the curve of the neck going up towards the headstock, known as neck relief.
  • Tuning stability: How well a guitar can hold its tuning, often influenced by tuning machines, nut, and the bridge.

How we test

Close up of the humbuckers on a Gretsch G5420T electric guitar

(Image credit: Future)

When choosing the best electric guitars under $1,000, there are a few key factors that go into what we decide to put into the guide. Our team has a wealth of experience testing guitars, so we know exactly what we’re looking for, beyond just ensuring the guitar comes in below the $1k mark.

With decades of experience using and reviewing gear, we put all that experience into the curation of our guides, ensuring that every guitar is great value for money and great quality. When we’re reviewing guitars, there are a few things we’ll always be looking out for.

1. Build quality

Our first tests will start with the build quality. Here we’ll be using our expert eye to look at every inch of the guitar in detail. We know how to spot bad fret work, finish blemishes, and poorly applied hardware, and we make sure to expertly examine every instrument that gets sent in for review.

2. Playability

With the quality of the build assessed, we’ll move on to playing the instrument. A lot of the time, we won’t even plug it in for this part, but just play it unplugged to really focus on how it feels. It’s not just the neck feel either, we’ll also look at how the weight of the guitar is distributed, how it feels standing up on a strap versus on your lap, and how it feels to move around with the guitar too.

3. Tone

With the playability checks done, it’s time to plug in and tune up. Here we’ll put the guitar through a variety of tests to see what it excels at, and what it’s not so good at. We’ll try different amps, different pedal combinations, and different playing styles in order to get a good overview of the instrument's capabilities.

4. Time

We’ll try and spend at least a couple of weeks with each instrument to ensure we really get to know it. This allows us to get over that initial honeymoon period and really find out what the guitar is like to live with. This way, we can see those potential issues it might have that you wouldn’t notice, having only played it for a couple of days.

Find out more about how we test music gear and services at MusicRadar.

Matt McCracken
Junior Deals Writer

Matt is a Junior Deals Writer here at MusicRadar. He regularly tests and reviews music gear with a focus on audio interfaces, studio headphones, studio monitors, and pretty much anything else recording-related. Matt worked in music retail for 5 years at Dawsons Music and Northwest Guitars and has written for various music sites including Guitar World, Guitar Player, Guitar.com, Ultimate Guitar, and Thomann’s t.blog. A regularly gigging guitarist with over 20 years of experience playing live and producing bands, he's also an alumnus of Spirit Studios, where he studied studio engineering and music production.

With contributions from